I enjoy teaching English here… but sometimes it can get a little mind-numbing speaking in my genkiest voice, trying to appear interested in hearing what Kenji had for lunch today, and spelling out words like ‘goggles’. So more than teaching English, I enjoy teaching culture. Luckily, the school I work at is pretty advanced in its English curriculum, and we have 異文化(i-bunka) classes, which translates as “different culture”. Awhile ago, I was helping a JTE teach a class about stereotypes. The idea of learning about stereotypes would elicit a groan from Australian high school students. The message has usually been drummed into them over their school years that “stereotypes are bad”. In Japan, however, I’m pretty sure kids never get this kind of input.
First of all, there’s no word for ‘stereotype’ in Japanese. The JTE told me that the loanword イメージ (imeeji, from ‘image’) is as close as it comes. Well, obviously a stereotype is an image, but a particular kind of image- an oversimplified image- that’s the point. The students didn’t seem to completely get the concept. Several of them had been on a homestay in Australia last year. We asked them what they had thought about Australian people before their trip. They ALL said “friendly”. We asked them if they still thought all Australians were friendly. They all said yes, without even thinking about it, and without elaborating.
One boy in the class had recently returned from a year living in Australia on exchange. I was sure he could come up with something more insightful than the other students. He used a Japanese word that the teacher translated as “carefree”, “happy-go-lucky” (or “slack”, if you put a negative spin on it). We asked if he still thought that about Australians, and he said yes. I asked “ALL Australians?”. And he replied, “Yes”. Fair enough... what we consider slack, or even carefree, in the West is vastly different from the less forgiving Japanese definition, in a country where meeting a friend 2 minutes late is inexcusable.
Of course, neither ‘friendly’ nor ‘carefree’ are bad things, and I don’t feel offended that Japanese high-schoolers perceive Australians that way. But it wasn’t so much what they thought, as how unquestioning they were of their own perceptions. The point of the class was to realize that stereotypes are often shallow and incorrect, not to simply regurgitate, and thereby perpetuate them.
This classroom experience got me thinking. The students seemed practically incapable of considering that changing their initial judgement of others is possible. They come across as extremely naïve in this respect, and really seem to lack the ability for critical thought. It’s not their fault; just a result of their culture and education system, I guess. Coupled with the lack of a satisfying Japanese word for 'stereotype', it makes me think that many Japanese people would have a hard time understanding and accepting the idea. When you think about the culture, this makes sense. Mainstream Japanese society actually relies on the perpetuation of stereotypes; more so than truly multicultural societies. Here, society is viewed as a collection of groups. The members of these groups are virtually one and the same- the individual doesn’t predominate. They stand together, united in a common role or purpose. If one member of the group does something wrong, all members are held at least partially responsible. That’s a given. Of course, this has some very positive results, like strong social cohesion and obedience brought about by avoidance of shame. But the group-centered mindset also provides fertile ground for the development and perpetuation of stereotypes… and its uglier cousins, prejudice and xenophobia.
This reminds me of another thing I’ve noticed: many Japanese perceive racism, discrimination and prejudice to be problems of other countries, not Japan. Of course when the population is 99% homogenous (racially speaking), it’s easy to be blissfully unaware of those issues. But discrimination and prejudice can exist within a relatively ‘pure’ society like Japan’s. And yet, because Japan is inclined to “spread the wealth around”, and because 99% of people share the same racial and genetic profile, the sector of society affected by prejudice and discrimination in Japan is easily ignored. So it’s not hard to see why these issues would go unrecognized and be swept under the rug. The popular perception is that Japan is homogenous – which it is- but more homogenous than it really is. I would venture to say that the senior high school student who knows anything about the burakumin, or Ainu or native Okinawans is a rare breed.
None of what I’ve just said is a novel insight- people (mainly outsiders) have recognized this about Japan for many years. And there are plenty of other more in-depth discussions out there than what I’ve come up with. But being here and seeing it first-hand in the young generation of Japanese is different, and more confronting, than just reading about it on some website.
Showing posts with label teaching. Show all posts
Showing posts with label teaching. Show all posts
Thursday, May 28, 2009
Tuesday, March 4, 2008
Ah, I see...?
I'm reading a book called "Chrysanthemums and Thorns" at the moment, by Edwin M. Reingold, a former Time editor who did a lot of reporting about Japan. It is really really insightful as far as Japan goes, because he writes so objectively and is not afraid to expose some of the darker aspects of Japanese society/culture/politics/business. He writes about stuff that most people never write about for fear of seeming offensive or too critical, breaking taboos, or exposing some great secret of Japanese society. For example, he analyzes things like the Japanese Emperor renouncing his status as a 'god', Japan's perception of foreigners, the role of women, the yakuza, and political corruption... I guess many Japanese would be mortified to read this book and even more mortified that foreigners were reading it. But I like it because it does expose the 'real Japan', as it claims to do. That's something that many people agree is hard to get at- so much of life and culture here is based on the superficial- at least it appears that way to an outsider.
The more time I spend here, the more it becomes apparent that the Western stereotype of Japan, like all stereotypes, is just a surface representation. It is practically useless for preparing someone for living in Japan. Even some of the 'advice' we JETs were given before arrival, bestowed on us by the knowledgeable people at the Japanese consulate, seems misguided in hindsight. Just basic things like, 'if you are an average-sized woman or bigger at home, you will have a hard time finding clothes in Japan' (I have no problem; the clothes may even fit me better than at home!), or 'don't say sayoonara at the end of a work day because it's too final' (plenty of my colleagues have said it to ME!), or 'work-wear in Japan is more formal than in Western countries' (lots of teachers wear tracksuits to work!), or 'Japanese people don't wear/like perfumes and scents' (I think there are more perfume and aromatherapy products here than anywhere). These points are not exactly profound things that have a huge influence on daily life, but they just go to show that nothing can prepare you for living (or attempting to understand) a culture like actually living there.
Anyway, back to the book. Not to sound like a book report, but I like how it talks about a lot of things I had noticed living here in Japan, and helps explain why they are the way they are. It also emphazises the danger of judging another culture by our own standards (something that was drummed into me in Anthropology time and time again at uni, but which is difficult to avoid doing in daily life). For example, in the West, we all assume that Japanese women hold a more weak, submissive role in Japanese society than women in Western countries. But, according to this book, what we don't recognize is the power they hold in the household- eg. the wives control the family finances, doling out an allowance to their husbands. And the role of 'housewive' is more respected here in Japan. In fact, just about every role is more respected in Japan- I don't think they have the concept of 'shitkicker' like we do! Tasks that we consider menial and beneath us, in the West, the Japanese tend to take a lot of pride in. So really, you can't make judgements about any aspect of another society without understanding how that part fits into the whole. (Man, I'm really sounding like an anthropology student here.) ...Which I don't claim to understand, and almost certainly never will, but at least I realize that!
What really prompted this long-winded post was what the book says about the Japanese learning style. Reading it helped me feel better about the way my classes go when I'm teaching. Remember how I commented on the catatonic-like behavior of the students? And their apparent lack of creativity and imagination? Well, it all makes sense in light of this:"The entire Japanese educational system is geared towards passive learning. Western teachers in Japan are often dismayed by the lack of challenge and questioning from students. It is often attributed to language difficulty, or to a natural diffidence or reticence. But the Japanese student is accustomed to absorbing information from his teacher. Today, more and more criticism is being lodged against the system that puts discipline and group effort before creativity and individual expression."
Also, "the original form of the Japanese verb 'to learn', manabu, came from the word maneru, which means 'to imitate'"... and I've noticed myself that they use the verb 'to memorize' or 'to remember', oboeru, a LOT when talking about study or learning or understanding.
Having said all that, there have been a few instances when I was able to coax out some creativity from my students- for example when I had them design an imaginary robot. Against what you might expect, the girls tend to be better at this than the boys. Although the class clowns are almost always boys. So who knows- this place, like anywhere, is complicated, and I will never work it out. But I sure am having fun (is that the right word?) trying!
The more time I spend here, the more it becomes apparent that the Western stereotype of Japan, like all stereotypes, is just a surface representation. It is practically useless for preparing someone for living in Japan. Even some of the 'advice' we JETs were given before arrival, bestowed on us by the knowledgeable people at the Japanese consulate, seems misguided in hindsight. Just basic things like, 'if you are an average-sized woman or bigger at home, you will have a hard time finding clothes in Japan' (I have no problem; the clothes may even fit me better than at home!), or 'don't say sayoonara at the end of a work day because it's too final' (plenty of my colleagues have said it to ME!), or 'work-wear in Japan is more formal than in Western countries' (lots of teachers wear tracksuits to work!), or 'Japanese people don't wear/like perfumes and scents' (I think there are more perfume and aromatherapy products here than anywhere). These points are not exactly profound things that have a huge influence on daily life, but they just go to show that nothing can prepare you for living (or attempting to understand) a culture like actually living there.
Anyway, back to the book. Not to sound like a book report, but I like how it talks about a lot of things I had noticed living here in Japan, and helps explain why they are the way they are. It also emphazises the danger of judging another culture by our own standards (something that was drummed into me in Anthropology time and time again at uni, but which is difficult to avoid doing in daily life). For example, in the West, we all assume that Japanese women hold a more weak, submissive role in Japanese society than women in Western countries. But, according to this book, what we don't recognize is the power they hold in the household- eg. the wives control the family finances, doling out an allowance to their husbands. And the role of 'housewive' is more respected here in Japan. In fact, just about every role is more respected in Japan- I don't think they have the concept of 'shitkicker' like we do! Tasks that we consider menial and beneath us, in the West, the Japanese tend to take a lot of pride in. So really, you can't make judgements about any aspect of another society without understanding how that part fits into the whole. (Man, I'm really sounding like an anthropology student here.) ...Which I don't claim to understand, and almost certainly never will, but at least I realize that!
What really prompted this long-winded post was what the book says about the Japanese learning style. Reading it helped me feel better about the way my classes go when I'm teaching. Remember how I commented on the catatonic-like behavior of the students? And their apparent lack of creativity and imagination? Well, it all makes sense in light of this:"The entire Japanese educational system is geared towards passive learning. Western teachers in Japan are often dismayed by the lack of challenge and questioning from students. It is often attributed to language difficulty, or to a natural diffidence or reticence. But the Japanese student is accustomed to absorbing information from his teacher. Today, more and more criticism is being lodged against the system that puts discipline and group effort before creativity and individual expression."
Also, "the original form of the Japanese verb 'to learn', manabu, came from the word maneru, which means 'to imitate'"... and I've noticed myself that they use the verb 'to memorize' or 'to remember', oboeru, a LOT when talking about study or learning or understanding.
Having said all that, there have been a few instances when I was able to coax out some creativity from my students- for example when I had them design an imaginary robot. Against what you might expect, the girls tend to be better at this than the boys. Although the class clowns are almost always boys. So who knows- this place, like anywhere, is complicated, and I will never work it out. But I sure am having fun (is that the right word?) trying!
Tuesday, January 22, 2008
New Year, New Post
I know it's all a big cliche to say that with a New Year comes new resolutions, the turning over of a new leaf, and all that. But recently - this week, actually - I've felt that something has changed in my outlook on my time here in Japan. I've suddenly started feeling a lot more comfortable here. It's probably due to a lot of things- I'm slowly but surely improving my Japanese (and have actually found a class that lets me learn how to SPEAK in Japanese as opposed to learning obscure grammatical rules); I'm approaching the 6 month mark of being here; I've pretty much resolved to stay here for another year, beyond my original one-year contract; and the fact that Leanne, my high school friend, is visiting from Australia.
Travelling with someone who is seeing Japan with a completely fresh outlook has made me aware of how much I actually do know about Japanese language, society, culture and trivial things. Even just knowing a nice cafe to take Leanne to, only a 5 minute walk from my house, made me realize that I'm not so much of an 'alien' here, but that I actually live here and am a functioning part of society... well, somewhat, anyway.
Now, I also don't feel so much like I'm part of some big imperialist effort to 'spread English to the masses' around the world. Being hired by the Japanese government to go inform people about English and Australian / Western culture didn't sit 100% comfortably with me. But I know it's up to me to make it what it is. I can go in there and demand the students 'say this', or 'do that', but the more classes I teach, the more I realise that my role is not to change them into outspoken, opinionated pseudo-Western English speakers. They are what they are, even if their behavior in class does come across as a little catatonic or 'robotic' overall. If I can make a few students a bit more passionate, a bit more motivated, a bit more confident about English, then I've done what I came here for. Sounds idealistic, I know, but last weekend something happened that made me feel it was happening. Five students from my school participated in an English Speech Competition in my city. The other ALT and I coached them for about 2 weeks, every day after school, in pronounciation, delivery, gesturing, etc. And we really saw an improvement. Most importantly, I could see that just practicing a speech they had written by themselves was giving them a lot of confidence and motivation. Especially for one student, Shiori, who I could tell was naturally shy and afraid to speak English. But she worked incredibly hard on practicing her speech, and took in everything I told her. She ended up winning the competition! In fact, all 5 of our students (3 of which we had coached) took the top 5 spots. Granted, only 2 schools were competing, but nevertheless, it would have meant a lot to those students. And to our school. I've never really been in a position to feel 'proud' of someone, since I've never been a teacher or coach before, but it really does feel great.
The other thing that has given me more confidence in my job is that yesterday one of my colleagues (a Japanese Teacher of English, or 'JTE') told me that every time she goes to teach a certain class, they ask 'where's Jessica?'. Apparently they really love my class. All this time I've been feeling that they weren't getting much out of it, they were bored, didn't understand anything I was saying, and so on. But all my efforts to make the classes fun and understandable are apparently not in vain. Japanese students, as I've been at pains to explain to people back home, are extremely shy, reserved and downright unresponsive compared to students in the West. Now, when I came here, I knew all about Japanese culture putting emphasis on the group and 'hammering down the nail that sticks out', etc. But it has been really hard to accept that Japanese students could actually be interested in a class, despite acting like they've had a frontal lobotomy. I'm sure there are some that really don't want to be there, but I think the majority of students do get something out of my classes, and I'm so glad to know that. The other thing is that Japanese people (ie. my work colleagues) don't tend to give feedback or talk about how a class or project went. So generally, I've had nothing to go on as far as working out whether my lessons are acceptable/worthwhile or not.
Anyway, to round out this deep and meaningful post, I guess I'll jot down my resolutions for 2008. Until this year I've never actually had resolutions. But now that I'm a 'real adult'- 25 and living alone, thousands of miles from my family - I've become aware of few things I need/want to do:
-Be more decisive. There are no right or wrong decisions, but make a decision and if it turns out not so good, deal with it.
-Eat healthier and try to exercise more. (the old staple)
-Be more open with other people.
-Find a hobby and actually stick with it.
-Trust your instincts.
Ok, let's go 2008!
Travelling with someone who is seeing Japan with a completely fresh outlook has made me aware of how much I actually do know about Japanese language, society, culture and trivial things. Even just knowing a nice cafe to take Leanne to, only a 5 minute walk from my house, made me realize that I'm not so much of an 'alien' here, but that I actually live here and am a functioning part of society... well, somewhat, anyway.
Now, I also don't feel so much like I'm part of some big imperialist effort to 'spread English to the masses' around the world. Being hired by the Japanese government to go inform people about English and Australian / Western culture didn't sit 100% comfortably with me. But I know it's up to me to make it what it is. I can go in there and demand the students 'say this', or 'do that', but the more classes I teach, the more I realise that my role is not to change them into outspoken, opinionated pseudo-Western English speakers. They are what they are, even if their behavior in class does come across as a little catatonic or 'robotic' overall. If I can make a few students a bit more passionate, a bit more motivated, a bit more confident about English, then I've done what I came here for. Sounds idealistic, I know, but last weekend something happened that made me feel it was happening. Five students from my school participated in an English Speech Competition in my city. The other ALT and I coached them for about 2 weeks, every day after school, in pronounciation, delivery, gesturing, etc. And we really saw an improvement. Most importantly, I could see that just practicing a speech they had written by themselves was giving them a lot of confidence and motivation. Especially for one student, Shiori, who I could tell was naturally shy and afraid to speak English. But she worked incredibly hard on practicing her speech, and took in everything I told her. She ended up winning the competition! In fact, all 5 of our students (3 of which we had coached) took the top 5 spots. Granted, only 2 schools were competing, but nevertheless, it would have meant a lot to those students. And to our school. I've never really been in a position to feel 'proud' of someone, since I've never been a teacher or coach before, but it really does feel great.
The other thing that has given me more confidence in my job is that yesterday one of my colleagues (a Japanese Teacher of English, or 'JTE') told me that every time she goes to teach a certain class, they ask 'where's Jessica?'. Apparently they really love my class. All this time I've been feeling that they weren't getting much out of it, they were bored, didn't understand anything I was saying, and so on. But all my efforts to make the classes fun and understandable are apparently not in vain. Japanese students, as I've been at pains to explain to people back home, are extremely shy, reserved and downright unresponsive compared to students in the West. Now, when I came here, I knew all about Japanese culture putting emphasis on the group and 'hammering down the nail that sticks out', etc. But it has been really hard to accept that Japanese students could actually be interested in a class, despite acting like they've had a frontal lobotomy. I'm sure there are some that really don't want to be there, but I think the majority of students do get something out of my classes, and I'm so glad to know that. The other thing is that Japanese people (ie. my work colleagues) don't tend to give feedback or talk about how a class or project went. So generally, I've had nothing to go on as far as working out whether my lessons are acceptable/worthwhile or not.
Anyway, to round out this deep and meaningful post, I guess I'll jot down my resolutions for 2008. Until this year I've never actually had resolutions. But now that I'm a 'real adult'- 25 and living alone, thousands of miles from my family - I've become aware of few things I need/want to do:
-Be more decisive. There are no right or wrong decisions, but make a decision and if it turns out not so good, deal with it.
-Eat healthier and try to exercise more. (the old staple)
-Be more open with other people.
-Find a hobby and actually stick with it.
-Trust your instincts.
Ok, let's go 2008!
Saturday, October 13, 2007
The Return of Jeshika
Ok, something has to change. I need to write in this blog more often... maybe short entries more often are better than long-winded crapping-on sessions twice a month.
Anyway. So how are things? Well, I guess it's safe to say I've settled in to some semblance of a life here. (Although having said that, today one of my friends here told me to 'get a life by Sunday'. She's from New York and thinks that gives her the right to talk tough ;) I am yet to find a form of regular physical exercise, though. I think I'm going to have to take the plunge (literally) and go swimming soon, or maybe use the indoor running track near here. With my new-found language deficit, however, I've been reluctant to attempt signing up for anything that hasn't been absolutely essential to daily life. But desperate times call for desperate measures, and twice-daily 15 minute bike rides (70% of which is coasting) just don't cut it for 'exercise'.
What else? Well I'm quite proud, actually, that I've been managing the ins and outs of daily life completely by myself... for the first time in my life, at the ripe old age of 24. Bills are getting paid, cleaning is being done, and semi-healthy food is being eaten. It's all a lot easier than they lead you to believe growing up, as you may or may not know. And this is all happening in a foreign country where I don't speak the language. Then again, there was that time I attempted to do a money transfer via the ATM - ALONE - and ended up freezing my account. At least it was only temporary. I've come to the conclusion that Japan really is discriminatory towards anyone who isn't Japanese. You can do EVERY other function on an ATM (withdrawals, deposits, balance inquiries etc) in English, but if you want to transfer money (which is essential for things like paying rent, buying plane tickets, etc), forget it. Anyway it worked out in the end, and now I have paid for my 3-day trip to Seoul, Korea, in November. Yay!
'Teaching' is going pretty good, too. Well, at least as far as I can tell. It's hard to know when the JTEs (Japanese teachers of English that are supposed to 'team-teach' with me) don't engage in feedback. Or planning, for that matter (with one or two exceptions). Oh, and when the students, 90% of the time, stare at me with blank faces. I have never come across a catatonic person, but I don't think they can be any less responsive than a class of 16-year-old Japanese students. I seriously doubt I will ever feel socially awkward again after being in (especially after teaching in) Japan. It's like trial by fire. I'm not kidding. Then again, whenever I feel like a freak, I remind myself that 'they think you're weird anyway, as a foreigner, so whatever you do won't change that'. Back home, you KNOW when you're acting against social codes, and can't fall back on the excuse, 'I'm a foreigner!'.
(*I know the word 'foreigner' might sound weird, but officially and unofficially, that's what non-Japanese people are called in Japan; there's no getting around it, so I use it freely now.)
Meeting the students outside class can be a different story, though. Some of them actually like to chat with me and Khaleelah (the other ALT at my school), and they sure like yelling 'Bye bye!' or 'See you!' at the end of the day. The other comforting thing lately has been that for the past 2 weeks, we've had 13 Australian high school students (from a sister school in Queensland) on exchange. It makes me feel a little more 'valid' as a person when they're around: "See, I'm not the only pigment-deprived individual in Kakamigahara!" They've been pretty friendly too, but for some reason insist on calling me 'Miss' which freaks me out and grates on my nerves every time they say it. I just picture this spinster teacher in a black dress with a bun, carrying a whipping cane. Hmph. Brisbane. What more do I need to say?
I would love to provide further witty commentary of my working day but am too tired right now to attempt that. I promise I will soon, though. Instead, an anecdote. Today I had to attend a seminar for Speech Contest judges in Gifu City. (That's right; I am qualified to judge a Speech Contest merely because of the fact that I am from an English-speaking country. I feel a bit guilty every time they bestow me with this kind of power, which I seem to have only by default. It's almost like if the authorities said, "Hey, you're healthy! Prescribe medicine!").) I took the train to the venue with one of the JTEs from my school, but then, once the seminar was over, I realised my stupid bike had been left at school. SOOOO once I got back to Kakamigahara, I had to walk 40 minutes from the train station to school. On my travels, I took a 'shortcut' (really just an alternate route... a random side-street that led to god-knows-where, at dusk).... where I encountered a factory worker, in overalls and all. Who walked alongside me for a few meters, looked me up and down, and said something incomprehensible in Japanese. Expecting the worst, I replied "Wakarimasen" ("I don't understand"), and walked quicker. "Kuni wa?" ("Your country is...?") To which I replied, "Oosutoraria". Upon which he told me, in Japanese, that many of his co-workers came from different countries, like Brazil, Korea, China... "Sou desu ka" ("Is that so?"), I replied, like a native. And that was it. We parted ways. Anyway, it might not seem like a momentous event, but it kind of sums up how things are going here. I don't know what the hell I'm doing, something comes up, I expect the worst, but it works out, and ends up being an interesting memory. And none of that ever would have happened if I hadn't forgotten my bike at school.
You can take whatever you want from that.
Anyway. So how are things? Well, I guess it's safe to say I've settled in to some semblance of a life here. (Although having said that, today one of my friends here told me to 'get a life by Sunday'. She's from New York and thinks that gives her the right to talk tough ;) I am yet to find a form of regular physical exercise, though. I think I'm going to have to take the plunge (literally) and go swimming soon, or maybe use the indoor running track near here. With my new-found language deficit, however, I've been reluctant to attempt signing up for anything that hasn't been absolutely essential to daily life. But desperate times call for desperate measures, and twice-daily 15 minute bike rides (70% of which is coasting) just don't cut it for 'exercise'.
What else? Well I'm quite proud, actually, that I've been managing the ins and outs of daily life completely by myself... for the first time in my life, at the ripe old age of 24. Bills are getting paid, cleaning is being done, and semi-healthy food is being eaten. It's all a lot easier than they lead you to believe growing up, as you may or may not know. And this is all happening in a foreign country where I don't speak the language. Then again, there was that time I attempted to do a money transfer via the ATM - ALONE - and ended up freezing my account. At least it was only temporary. I've come to the conclusion that Japan really is discriminatory towards anyone who isn't Japanese. You can do EVERY other function on an ATM (withdrawals, deposits, balance inquiries etc) in English, but if you want to transfer money (which is essential for things like paying rent, buying plane tickets, etc), forget it. Anyway it worked out in the end, and now I have paid for my 3-day trip to Seoul, Korea, in November. Yay!
'Teaching' is going pretty good, too. Well, at least as far as I can tell. It's hard to know when the JTEs (Japanese teachers of English that are supposed to 'team-teach' with me) don't engage in feedback. Or planning, for that matter (with one or two exceptions). Oh, and when the students, 90% of the time, stare at me with blank faces. I have never come across a catatonic person, but I don't think they can be any less responsive than a class of 16-year-old Japanese students. I seriously doubt I will ever feel socially awkward again after being in (especially after teaching in) Japan. It's like trial by fire. I'm not kidding. Then again, whenever I feel like a freak, I remind myself that 'they think you're weird anyway, as a foreigner, so whatever you do won't change that'. Back home, you KNOW when you're acting against social codes, and can't fall back on the excuse, 'I'm a foreigner!'.
(*I know the word 'foreigner' might sound weird, but officially and unofficially, that's what non-Japanese people are called in Japan; there's no getting around it, so I use it freely now.)
Meeting the students outside class can be a different story, though. Some of them actually like to chat with me and Khaleelah (the other ALT at my school), and they sure like yelling 'Bye bye!' or 'See you!' at the end of the day. The other comforting thing lately has been that for the past 2 weeks, we've had 13 Australian high school students (from a sister school in Queensland) on exchange. It makes me feel a little more 'valid' as a person when they're around: "See, I'm not the only pigment-deprived individual in Kakamigahara!" They've been pretty friendly too, but for some reason insist on calling me 'Miss' which freaks me out and grates on my nerves every time they say it. I just picture this spinster teacher in a black dress with a bun, carrying a whipping cane. Hmph. Brisbane. What more do I need to say?
I would love to provide further witty commentary of my working day but am too tired right now to attempt that. I promise I will soon, though. Instead, an anecdote. Today I had to attend a seminar for Speech Contest judges in Gifu City. (That's right; I am qualified to judge a Speech Contest merely because of the fact that I am from an English-speaking country. I feel a bit guilty every time they bestow me with this kind of power, which I seem to have only by default. It's almost like if the authorities said, "Hey, you're healthy! Prescribe medicine!").) I took the train to the venue with one of the JTEs from my school, but then, once the seminar was over, I realised my stupid bike had been left at school. SOOOO once I got back to Kakamigahara, I had to walk 40 minutes from the train station to school. On my travels, I took a 'shortcut' (really just an alternate route... a random side-street that led to god-knows-where, at dusk).... where I encountered a factory worker, in overalls and all. Who walked alongside me for a few meters, looked me up and down, and said something incomprehensible in Japanese. Expecting the worst, I replied "Wakarimasen" ("I don't understand"), and walked quicker. "Kuni wa?" ("Your country is...?") To which I replied, "Oosutoraria". Upon which he told me, in Japanese, that many of his co-workers came from different countries, like Brazil, Korea, China... "Sou desu ka" ("Is that so?"), I replied, like a native. And that was it. We parted ways. Anyway, it might not seem like a momentous event, but it kind of sums up how things are going here. I don't know what the hell I'm doing, something comes up, I expect the worst, but it works out, and ends up being an interesting memory. And none of that ever would have happened if I hadn't forgotten my bike at school.
You can take whatever you want from that.
Friday, September 28, 2007
Kyoto Khaos
The past two weeks have been fairly easy, work-wise. It feels like I’ve spent more time doing interesting Japanese-y things than working, which is great, but believe it or not, I am actually ready to start ‘real’ work, 2 months into the job! Japan has had two long weekends in a row, thanks to ‘Respect for the Aged Day’ and ‘Autumnal Equinox Day’. By comparison, Australians really shouldn’t get so excited about their one or two slack ‘do we really need this?’ public holidays- the Melbourne Cup and Queen’s Birthday. Japan is the world leader in those kinds of days off… a sample from my diary: Health and Sports Day; Culture Day; Coming of Age Day; Vernal Equinox Day (and it’s on a Thursday!); Emperor’s Birthday; Greenery Day; Children’s Day; Marine Day… etc.
Anyway, the last few days at work have been taken up with high school exams. I think they have them every couple of months or so. I actually had to write one of the tests for the 3rd grade class (Year 12)! That was interesting, given that I hadn’t even taught them the material they were going to be tested on. Oh well, somehow I cobbled together a few questions using the textbook. I also had to mark the tests, and freaked myself out because the first 5 or so were terrible- like 20 out of 50. I thought I had made the test too hard, until I found a few students who managed to get in the high 40s. Phew! “With great power comes great responsibility.” ;-pBut the main thing that’s blog-worthy this time is my trip to Kyoto ! I went last weekend with 4 other people (all doing the same program as me). Kyoto, in case you didn’t know, is the cultural capital of Japan . It wasn’t bombed during WWII, so many of Japan ’s oldest and most famous temples are there. AND, it’s only a 2 hour train ride (only around $20) from here! I knew Gifu was good for something… getting away!
Saturday, September 22-
Wake up early and try to discreetly (i.e. through much banging of pots and pans; turning taps off and on; opening and shutting doors) force my friend Sandra to wake up and get moving because we can’t miss the train! Arrive at the station on time, but receive a call from the other three, saying they’re gonna miss it. Decide to go anyway- screw them, they can get the next one. (hehe) Are surprised when they step on the train one stop after us; they made it after all, but had to do a last-second car park in a weird spot. We all pray the car is still there in two days time.
Arrive in Kyoto, ravenous. Must eat before we can sightsee. Wander the station for half an hour and finally get a meal in an ‘Italian’ restaurant. After eating, realize we need bus and sightseeing info. Find the tourist info office, but unfortunately, it’s only for Japanese people. A sign informs us that foreigners must go to the 9th floor. “Apartheid!”, we protest. 2 hours after arriving at Kyoto station, we manage to exit it. Get the bus to our first destination, Nijo-jo (Nijo castle). Buy an entry ticket from machine (yeah, why DO we need ticket booth attendants anyway?) Enter the glory that is Nijo-jo. Marvel at the architecture, straight out of a samurai movie, and the sheer number of middle-aged French tourists. Marvel again at the ‘nightingale’ floors- the floorboards are arranged so that when you walk on them, they squeak and sound exactly like birds twittering (designed so that intruders could be detected).
Take the bus to the hotel, Orange Inn, chosen by yours truly. Check in and flop on the bunks. But realize we must soldier on. Take the train to an out-of-the-way, but reportedly incredibly awesome, shrine: Fushimi Inari Taisha. It’s a Shinto shrine dedicated to Inari, the god of fertility, rice, agriculture, foxes and industry (according to Wikipedia!). Her spirits, or messengers, are foxes, which supposedly hold the key to rice granaries in their mouths. I just like the bit about the foxes. Anyway, behind the shrine, there are hundreds of red gates (torii) lined up like dominoes, which are very impressive and picturesque. If you come to Kyoto , you must go.
Take bus to Gion, the old ‘geisha’ district of Kyoto, with visions of geisha dancing in our heads. Fail to spot a geisha but are too hungry to care. Eat okonomiyaki at a traditional-looking restaurant near a very beautiful stream and bridge.
Go to bed early, with plans to rise early to make the most of the day.
Sunday, September 23-
Miss the alarm; sleep in until 10. Abandon all hope of getting out early, knowing the reputations of two of our crew (they like to groom). Eat a combini (convenience store) breakfast on the way to first sight: Kinkakuji. This is the most well-known landmark in Kyoto . It’s a temple coated- COATED- in gold (Kin means gold). It’s a bit smaller than I imagined but absolutely stunning.
Take bus to second site, Ginkakuji. Gin means silver. But alas, it’s not coated in silver. The intention was there, but it never happened. Instead, (cue pretentious language) this temple has become an example of the wabisabi aesthetic- basically an idea of beauty that’s not about perfection, but about seeing beauty in imperfect, impermanent, incomplete things. The gardens surrounding the temple are beautiful; so cultivated- every branch and rock has been pruned or placed just-so, but it still manages to look natural. Personally, I found Ginkakuji just as, if not more, impressive than Kinkakuji, but in a different way.
…Continue our temple-crawl- onwards to Kiyomizudera (It means ‘clear water temple’. Little did we know, it was to live up to its name in an unexpected way). Anticipate the most breathtaking view in all of Japan , perhaps the world (the view has just been declared one of the new 7 wonders of the world, or something). Walk for 30 minutes through a cemetery, slowing developing the suspicion that we’re going the wrong way. Eventually arrive at the temple. Confirm that it’s beautiful. Look up as the heavens open and the first of many, many raindrops hit us. Look around at all the Japanese tourists, huddled under the sheltered parts, staring gloomily out. Decide we might as well look even weirder than we already do, and run through the rain to the temple. Look out at haze. Wonder if the view really is nice and decide we may never know. Get even wetter, running from one pagoda to another. Get separated. Call each other with instructions for how to find each other. Don’t find each other. Get literally pushed into the rain by grumpy Japanese woman trying to close up her souvenir shop. Leave the temple, this time walking the correct way down the hill, along with 10 000 other Japanese tourists. Finally give in a pay 400 yen each for an umbrella. Walk for another half hour to the bus. End up in Gion again.
Decide an sento (public bath) is what we need. Arrive at sento – boys and girls separate. Fumble around with our lockers et cetera for 10 minutes before we get up the courage to strip off. Enter bathing area, cover certain areas with our ‘dignity towel’. ‘ Wash ’ (whoops, forgot to bring soap!) before getting in the bath. Enter 50-degree water. Turn pink, but enjoy the feeling of having the top 2 layers of skin die. Move to outdoor bath. Notice old Japanese lady in bath. She notices us. She leaves.
After sento, find a random restaurant and eat. Go back to hotel. Fall asleep.
Monday, September 24
Awaken to the sound of loud American and Australian backpackers talking about nothing. Check out of hotel and take bus to Kyoto station. Find omiyage (souvenir) store and fork out 1000 yen for the obligatory edible presents all Japanese work colleagues expect upon one’s return from afar.Take train back to Gifu . Celebrate when we find the car still in the car park. Officially declare the trip a success!
Anyway, the last few days at work have been taken up with high school exams. I think they have them every couple of months or so. I actually had to write one of the tests for the 3rd grade class (Year 12)! That was interesting, given that I hadn’t even taught them the material they were going to be tested on. Oh well, somehow I cobbled together a few questions using the textbook. I also had to mark the tests, and freaked myself out because the first 5 or so were terrible- like 20 out of 50. I thought I had made the test too hard, until I found a few students who managed to get in the high 40s. Phew! “With great power comes great responsibility.” ;-pBut the main thing that’s blog-worthy this time is my trip to Kyoto ! I went last weekend with 4 other people (all doing the same program as me). Kyoto, in case you didn’t know, is the cultural capital of Japan . It wasn’t bombed during WWII, so many of Japan ’s oldest and most famous temples are there. AND, it’s only a 2 hour train ride (only around $20) from here! I knew Gifu was good for something… getting away!
Saturday, September 22-
Wake up early and try to discreetly (i.e. through much banging of pots and pans; turning taps off and on; opening and shutting doors) force my friend Sandra to wake up and get moving because we can’t miss the train! Arrive at the station on time, but receive a call from the other three, saying they’re gonna miss it. Decide to go anyway- screw them, they can get the next one. (hehe) Are surprised when they step on the train one stop after us; they made it after all, but had to do a last-second car park in a weird spot. We all pray the car is still there in two days time.
Arrive in Kyoto, ravenous. Must eat before we can sightsee. Wander the station for half an hour and finally get a meal in an ‘Italian’ restaurant. After eating, realize we need bus and sightseeing info. Find the tourist info office, but unfortunately, it’s only for Japanese people. A sign informs us that foreigners must go to the 9th floor. “Apartheid!”, we protest. 2 hours after arriving at Kyoto station, we manage to exit it. Get the bus to our first destination, Nijo-jo (Nijo castle). Buy an entry ticket from machine (yeah, why DO we need ticket booth attendants anyway?) Enter the glory that is Nijo-jo. Marvel at the architecture, straight out of a samurai movie, and the sheer number of middle-aged French tourists. Marvel again at the ‘nightingale’ floors- the floorboards are arranged so that when you walk on them, they squeak and sound exactly like birds twittering (designed so that intruders could be detected).
Take the bus to the hotel, Orange Inn, chosen by yours truly. Check in and flop on the bunks. But realize we must soldier on. Take the train to an out-of-the-way, but reportedly incredibly awesome, shrine: Fushimi Inari Taisha. It’s a Shinto shrine dedicated to Inari, the god of fertility, rice, agriculture, foxes and industry (according to Wikipedia!). Her spirits, or messengers, are foxes, which supposedly hold the key to rice granaries in their mouths. I just like the bit about the foxes. Anyway, behind the shrine, there are hundreds of red gates (torii) lined up like dominoes, which are very impressive and picturesque. If you come to Kyoto , you must go.
Take bus to Gion, the old ‘geisha’ district of Kyoto, with visions of geisha dancing in our heads. Fail to spot a geisha but are too hungry to care. Eat okonomiyaki at a traditional-looking restaurant near a very beautiful stream and bridge.
Go to bed early, with plans to rise early to make the most of the day.
Sunday, September 23-
Miss the alarm; sleep in until 10. Abandon all hope of getting out early, knowing the reputations of two of our crew (they like to groom). Eat a combini (convenience store) breakfast on the way to first sight: Kinkakuji. This is the most well-known landmark in Kyoto . It’s a temple coated- COATED- in gold (Kin means gold). It’s a bit smaller than I imagined but absolutely stunning.
Take bus to second site, Ginkakuji. Gin means silver. But alas, it’s not coated in silver. The intention was there, but it never happened. Instead, (cue pretentious language) this temple has become an example of the wabisabi aesthetic- basically an idea of beauty that’s not about perfection, but about seeing beauty in imperfect, impermanent, incomplete things. The gardens surrounding the temple are beautiful; so cultivated- every branch and rock has been pruned or placed just-so, but it still manages to look natural. Personally, I found Ginkakuji just as, if not more, impressive than Kinkakuji, but in a different way.
…Continue our temple-crawl- onwards to Kiyomizudera (It means ‘clear water temple’. Little did we know, it was to live up to its name in an unexpected way). Anticipate the most breathtaking view in all of Japan , perhaps the world (the view has just been declared one of the new 7 wonders of the world, or something). Walk for 30 minutes through a cemetery, slowing developing the suspicion that we’re going the wrong way. Eventually arrive at the temple. Confirm that it’s beautiful. Look up as the heavens open and the first of many, many raindrops hit us. Look around at all the Japanese tourists, huddled under the sheltered parts, staring gloomily out. Decide we might as well look even weirder than we already do, and run through the rain to the temple. Look out at haze. Wonder if the view really is nice and decide we may never know. Get even wetter, running from one pagoda to another. Get separated. Call each other with instructions for how to find each other. Don’t find each other. Get literally pushed into the rain by grumpy Japanese woman trying to close up her souvenir shop. Leave the temple, this time walking the correct way down the hill, along with 10 000 other Japanese tourists. Finally give in a pay 400 yen each for an umbrella. Walk for another half hour to the bus. End up in Gion again.
Decide an sento (public bath) is what we need. Arrive at sento – boys and girls separate. Fumble around with our lockers et cetera for 10 minutes before we get up the courage to strip off. Enter bathing area, cover certain areas with our ‘dignity towel’. ‘ Wash ’ (whoops, forgot to bring soap!) before getting in the bath. Enter 50-degree water. Turn pink, but enjoy the feeling of having the top 2 layers of skin die. Move to outdoor bath. Notice old Japanese lady in bath. She notices us. She leaves.
After sento, find a random restaurant and eat. Go back to hotel. Fall asleep.
Monday, September 24
Awaken to the sound of loud American and Australian backpackers talking about nothing. Check out of hotel and take bus to Kyoto station. Find omiyage (souvenir) store and fork out 1000 yen for the obligatory edible presents all Japanese work colleagues expect upon one’s return from afar.Take train back to Gifu . Celebrate when we find the car still in the car park. Officially declare the trip a success!
Friday, August 31, 2007
Hi ho, hi ho, it's off to work I go
Well, here I am at the end of another week at K Senior High School... and it`s really been the most eventful week so far, given that for the first three weeks I only came into work 60 percent of the days and the time I was here was spent distributing `Australian candy` (nougat, because it was the only thing I could think to bring that wouldn`t melt in the 40-degree heat) and trying to look busy.
So, now I can actually answer the question `how are your classes?`. I`ve had 9 classes this week, and most of them were self-introduction lessons, meaning I had to tell the students about Australia, Melbourne, me, etc… I think I`ve worked out a good routine now, which involves handing out photos of me, Melbourne, school, uni, my house, work, family, and friends.
I have to teach all levels of high school, which is years 9-12 here in Japan, or as they say, first, second and third grade (of high school). It`s only certain classes though- the listening and oral communication and culture classes. I think they have a lot of other classes that focus on grammar- we all know how boring that is. So I`m trying to get them to enjoy what I teach them, but it is SO HARD TO TELL… Japanese generally do not like to express emotion when they are in a group. This of course means that I am standing in front of the class, trying to ask them a question like `did you enjoy your weekend?`, and I get blank stares and poker faces from 40 students. Well, that`s an extreme example, but still, it`s the general vibe of students here… at least now. Maybe when they get to know me better they will be less `catatonic zombie` and more `normal human being`. Anyway, I`m pretty sure it`s not just me; other ALTs have noticed the same thing, so I guess it`s cultural. Having said that, in many classes, talking, or even sleeping in class is not actively discouraged. So I`ve had to contend with that too.
I teach with about 7 different teachers, some every week, others every two weeks (and I don`t know when I`ll ever get my head around the schedule). A couple are really organized and like to plan the lessons themselves, but the others, well, they want me to basically take over, and they will just `observe` (read: sit in the corner and stare at a book).
And now, for your pleasure, I present… Key moments in the inauguration of Jess as an ALT:
-10 Japanese high school girls squealing `kawaii` (cute) when I stuck a toy kangaroo on the blackboard (it had magnets in its paws)
-being asked in every class about my cat, her name and age… to which I have to respond by pretending that she still actually exists!
-asking `what did you do in your summer holidays?` and receiving the reply `I came to school` from way too many students
-facing my own mortality after a whole class of students swore they felt an earthquake (which mysteriously, neither I, nor the other ALT, nor the Japanese teacher were able to detect)
-witnessing pre-class female grooming practices: they take out 20cm x 20cm mirrors, on stands, and brush each others` hair
-catching a glimpse of something I didn`t want to see as one girl walked up the stairs. Let me just say they wear their skirts really short here.
-being greeted with a friendly `harro!` by the rugby players every morning as they change into their school uniforms near the bicycle parking spots
-being laughed at because of the holes in my (Australian-made, I will point out) socks (we have to change from `outdoor` shoes to `indoor` shoes in the morning)
-waking up 2 students from their naps so they could do a worksheet
-watching a teacher fall asleep at her desk
-trying to fake empathy when the Japanese teacher next to me sighs loudly and says for the 50th time in one day, atsui, ne? (hot, isn`t it?)
-being left alone in the staffroom (for 30 people) with only the Vice Principal for company- he at the `important people` end of the room, and me at the `shit kicker` end
-hearing stories of the ongoing dramas of my fellow ALTs (attack of the killer Japanese bugs; destruction of mobile phone by toilet water; interrogation by Japanese police after extremely minor car accident; stalking by slightly mentally impaired 16-year-old Japanese boy; bruising of kidneys and fracture of breastbone after jumping off a bridge...- and that`s only from 3 people!) and wondering why my life here is so boring
Ah, yes, `tis a life of adventure…
So, now I can actually answer the question `how are your classes?`. I`ve had 9 classes this week, and most of them were self-introduction lessons, meaning I had to tell the students about Australia, Melbourne, me, etc… I think I`ve worked out a good routine now, which involves handing out photos of me, Melbourne, school, uni, my house, work, family, and friends.
I have to teach all levels of high school, which is years 9-12 here in Japan, or as they say, first, second and third grade (of high school). It`s only certain classes though- the listening and oral communication and culture classes. I think they have a lot of other classes that focus on grammar- we all know how boring that is. So I`m trying to get them to enjoy what I teach them, but it is SO HARD TO TELL… Japanese generally do not like to express emotion when they are in a group. This of course means that I am standing in front of the class, trying to ask them a question like `did you enjoy your weekend?`, and I get blank stares and poker faces from 40 students. Well, that`s an extreme example, but still, it`s the general vibe of students here… at least now. Maybe when they get to know me better they will be less `catatonic zombie` and more `normal human being`. Anyway, I`m pretty sure it`s not just me; other ALTs have noticed the same thing, so I guess it`s cultural. Having said that, in many classes, talking, or even sleeping in class is not actively discouraged. So I`ve had to contend with that too.
I teach with about 7 different teachers, some every week, others every two weeks (and I don`t know when I`ll ever get my head around the schedule). A couple are really organized and like to plan the lessons themselves, but the others, well, they want me to basically take over, and they will just `observe` (read: sit in the corner and stare at a book).
And now, for your pleasure, I present… Key moments in the inauguration of Jess as an ALT:
-10 Japanese high school girls squealing `kawaii` (cute) when I stuck a toy kangaroo on the blackboard (it had magnets in its paws)
-being asked in every class about my cat, her name and age… to which I have to respond by pretending that she still actually exists!
-asking `what did you do in your summer holidays?` and receiving the reply `I came to school` from way too many students
-facing my own mortality after a whole class of students swore they felt an earthquake (which mysteriously, neither I, nor the other ALT, nor the Japanese teacher were able to detect)
-witnessing pre-class female grooming practices: they take out 20cm x 20cm mirrors, on stands, and brush each others` hair
-catching a glimpse of something I didn`t want to see as one girl walked up the stairs. Let me just say they wear their skirts really short here.
-being greeted with a friendly `harro!` by the rugby players every morning as they change into their school uniforms near the bicycle parking spots
-being laughed at because of the holes in my (Australian-made, I will point out) socks (we have to change from `outdoor` shoes to `indoor` shoes in the morning)
-waking up 2 students from their naps so they could do a worksheet
-watching a teacher fall asleep at her desk
-trying to fake empathy when the Japanese teacher next to me sighs loudly and says for the 50th time in one day, atsui, ne? (hot, isn`t it?)
-being left alone in the staffroom (for 30 people) with only the Vice Principal for company- he at the `important people` end of the room, and me at the `shit kicker` end
-hearing stories of the ongoing dramas of my fellow ALTs (attack of the killer Japanese bugs; destruction of mobile phone by toilet water; interrogation by Japanese police after extremely minor car accident; stalking by slightly mentally impaired 16-year-old Japanese boy; bruising of kidneys and fracture of breastbone after jumping off a bridge...- and that`s only from 3 people!) and wondering why my life here is so boring
Ah, yes, `tis a life of adventure…
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